Tame, Wild and everything in between

Servus!

Back from my travels through beautiful Canada and the United States, it was time catch up with friends, family, and, sadly, the “important” things in life, meaning work. But this page wouldn´t be called rumzuuch if I hadn´t already been somewhere else than home since my return.

Last week, it was time to discover some mountains that really live up to their name – The Kaiser Mountains.

Wilder Kaiser
Wilder Kaiser

Although the peaks at the border between Austria and Germany are only at the “gate” into the alps (the Inn Valley), the views here are no less stunning than in the central alps. We chose to do a three-day trek that would lead us into the heart of the “Kaiserwinkl” – the plateau between the “wild” and the “tame” mountain ranges.

Starting point of the trek was in Ebbs near Kufstein. One can park their car near the “Café Zacherl” and start the ascent through the beautiful, green forest on a path named “Musikantensteig”. Climbing about 700 metres vertical within two hours or so, the ascent is quite the warmup for the tour. Good thing the Vorderkaiserfeldenhütte is close. The cosy little house is situated at an elevation of 1388m and offers a great view towards Innsbruck. While enjoying some Kässpätzle or other great classics of the tyrolian kitchen, one can soak in the expansive views!

For an even better view, I can recommend hiking a few extra vertical metres to the Naunspitze, where the sunset is simply magical. Overlooking the Inn river on the one and the Wilder Kaiser on the other side, the 360° view from the top is the perfect end to the first day of the trek.

Naunspitze
Naunspitze

Back at the hut, you better take it easy on the Whitebeer and instead get a good night´s sleep, because the next day is going to be a long one. In the first three hours, the path leads us past the Naunspitze, via the Petersköpfl, Einserkogel and Zwölferkogel to the highest point of the trek, the Pyramidenspitze.

At an elevation of 1998m, we enjoy our lunch at the summit that offers views as far as the Salzburger Land!

alpine flowers
Alpine Flowers

But thinking that it´ll get easier from there would be a bad mistake – the next 400-500 metres vertical down a steep, rocky path are tiring both physically and mentally. Watch your step, or you might slip! If you´re a more experienced hiker or just take your time down this trail, you might be able to spot some mountain goats in the boulderfields!

Strenuous Descent
Strenuous Descent

And even after that, there is a long way to go until we reach this night´s hut. But the hike along the south side of the Zahmer Kaiser treats you with breathtaking sights of the Wilder Kaiser. Additionally, the further away we get from the Inntal, the quieter it gets, and the flowers along the way make you feel like you´re in some version of a Heidi – movie.

In the three to four hours that are left we gain and lose about 500 vertical metres before finally approaching the Stripsenjochhaus (1580m). Whatever you order for dinner, make sure there is room for a real tyrolian treat – a legendary Kaiserschmarrn!

After that, sit down and enjoy yet another wonderful sunset! No need to rush to another peak, the views from the hut are insanely beautiful!

Stripsenjochhaus
Stripsenjochhaus

The next day starts with a relaxed walk back to the Hochalm – it´s your choice if you hike back the same way or take a slightly different route via the Feldalm. The interesting part of the day starts once you´ve reached the Hochalm! Take the steep trail up and the traverse right through boulderfields and bushes on a very narrow path that leads us to the “Heubergsattel”. If you are keen on another peak, you can climb the Heuberg relatively fast. On the way down towards Durchholzen, we pass a small creek that invites us to take a rest and have lunch. Almost there, you´d think. But in order to get back to the parking lot, we´ll have to ascent another 300 metres vertical, which might really get on your nerves. At least the reward for last ascent through the forest is another nice view towards the Geigelstein, the Walchsee and Reit im Winkl.

Considering that we climbed up to the Jöchlalm just to hike back down on the other side, that very last bit of the hike is the most annoying part, and once you´ve reached the Aschinger Alm, you deserve that Whitebeer that you´ve been waiting for! Prost, to a great hike!

Check out the gallery for more impressions, and download the .gpx file for the trek here.


 

Tunes for the Road

Fall Backroad Travel Western Canada/US on Roadtrippers

If you are on the road for 8158 kilometres or 91 hours and 14 minutes, you better have a fabulous playlist rocking your car stereo.

The playlist for our roadtrip was 57 minutes long, and we could have listened to it throughout the entire trip and still wouldn´t be sick of it. We didn´t, but we could have! It´s true!

Enjoy those tunes, kick back and think of the places where you want to go next!

 

 

The Canyons of Utah (and Arizona), Pt. 2

There´s a fine line between total fulfillment and frustration. We experienced this line in southern Utah.

From Hanksville, Utah, we headed south to “Bullfrog Marina“. Mainly because it sounded nice, and it was situated in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, which sounded promising. We were super excited to see this

GlenCanyon

but sadly, we only got to see this…

Truck and Boat

Turns out that you can only get those pretty views in the top picture from a boat, and we had to leave the canoe behind in Canada. So we were stuck in the world´s ugliest place, surrounded by motorboat enthusiasts who loved their truck and boat more than their wife and kids. We had to find a different way to see some impressive Canyons. From Bullfrog, we headed west, and reached “BLM-Land” soon enough. After we had found an amazing spot to spend the night our “neighbor” who put up his camp 100 metres from us, decided that he´d like to have the place all to himself. Since we didn´t want to mess with an american redneck we decided to keep driving and find a different spot. The last sunrays were shining upon our car when we found a place in the middle of nowhere that we could call home for the next night. What a rollercoaster that day had been!

We cooked some delicious couscous and got lost staring into the galaxies when we noticed that it got quite cold. So we went to bed to start the next day early enough to catch the first sunbeams of the day! It was stunning how the light in the canyon had changed from sunset to sunrise. The mood was incredible, and although it was really cold it was worth getting up that early.

We had a brutal day of driving ahead of us. From the Glen Canyon, we wanted to head west through the Capitol Reef National Park, where we came from, and then further to the Zion National Park. Since driving with a cold and a fever wasn´t the best idea, we stopped in Escalante just past Boulder (Utah), where we found an amazing organic shop called “Escalante Mercantile”. Also, the visitor centre in Escalante was very informative and it was about time for us to catch up with the folks at home and the WiFi there was pretty good!

One thing led to another and soon enough we found ourselves in a guesthouse on a beautiful ranch in the quietest place in southern Utah, staying the night and getting over our cold.

The next day we organized our stuff and headed towards Zion National Park. We made it just in time for a quick hike on the Canyon Overlook Trail at the east entrance of the park, where we could watch the sun lighting up the red cliffs of the National Park. We headed back to our very nice campground that was just outside the park.

We went to bed early to gather our strength for the next day. Good thing we did, because it should be a very rough one.

Having a broken radiator hose in the traffic jam right before a tunnel sucks. On the bright side, we were lucky that this little “incident” didn´t happen 10 minutes later, because then we´d have been stuck in the tunnel. Anyway, shortly after we had reached the magical Zion NP we left it – in a towtruck that was driven by Hank, a man who called himself a “hick” and who is very proud of the fact that his 12 year old daughter can handle a “small pumpgun”.

Although I´m positive that Hank voted for Drumpf and is therefore partly responsible for the upcoming World War III, we got our radiator hose fixed and our car towed for 250$, which was not too bad considering that we were in no-man´s-land and would have paid any price to get out of this situation.

After we´d lost another day, it was time for us to visit the greatest of all canyons, El Grande, the Grand Canyon.

I will spare out further descriptions and just say this: Visit the North Rim in mid-october, avoid the crowds and take in breathtaking views, narrow trails that lead you through millions of years of earth history and an awesome campground in the pine forest!

 

The Canyons of Utah, Pt. 1

“Should we drive any further?”

Since it´s “only” five hours from Jackson, Wyoming, to Salt Lake City, Utah, and then another three to Capitol Reef, the decision was obvious: Hit the road! After a stop in Salt Lake City we drove to Capitol Reef National Park to see the stunning waterfold, narrow canyons and mars-like landscape.

As mentioned, it was a very spontaneous decision to head to Capitol Reef, which is probably the most underestimated of Utah´s “Mighty Five” National Parks and thus we had no idea what to do, where or how long to stay. The first night we spent just outside of the National Park on a small campground with a little fee (6$), because we´d heard that the campground in Fruita was full for the day.

We didn´t want to miss out on a stay at the campground amidst beautiful orchards, so the next day we started early to secure a spot within the boundaries of the National Park. The first attraction of the NP was Chimney Rock and the Goosenecks Overlook. Those two sights were very promising, and after a quick stop in the Visitor Center we were stoked to see the rest of the park. So we checked in to the campground and got a spot just a stonethrow away from a herd of deers with the biggest ears ever!

Again, our book came in very handy. We had read about the Grand Wash, and after the incredibly friendly volunteer at the campground approved that hike, we decided to head there in the evening. It was just a quick drive from the campground and a 30 minute walk (one-way), but that was enough to get away from the crowds completely. The massive, narrow canyon walls were impressive, and it was incredible to see fast the scenery changing as the sun slowly set.

But our new friend from the campground recommended not only that, but also a very narrow slot canyon “near” the National Park, which we explored the next day. Of course, the 30 minute drive he had promised us turned into a 90 minute journey, but it was worth it! We stayed overnight on BLM-land (free camping!) near the Goblin Valley State Park, just a couple of meters from the trailhead to the slot canyon.

Although the hike at the Grand Wash was great, it couldn´t beat the amazing Little Wild Horse Canyon! The whole area (San Rafael Swell) is known for its opportunities for canyoneering, but the Wild Horse Canyon is a fairly easy hike that everybody could do. A look at the weather forecast is necessary to check for flash floods, but on a fine day you can enjoy the canyon worry-free.

After the hike, we treated ourselves to a nice milkshake in the “town” of Hanksville. We expected Walter White to walk in any minute, because we had seen his RV at the gas station, but we couldn´t find him.

Since we were already close to Bullfrog Marina, we decided to head there next. Stay tuned for the next story!

 

The Grand Treaton

Snowcapped mountains, bugling elk, grazing moose, crystal clear lakes – you name it, The Grand Teton National Park has it. Located in the massive and sparsely populated state of Wyoming, this is without a doubt one of North America´s treasures and might be my personal favorite so far. Unlike Yellowstone National Park, the good stuff here is hidden on the highest peaks – thus the title of this blogpost. It seems like wherever you hike, you will be rewarded with solitude, spectacular views and lots of wildlife. Most people seem to settle for the Yellowstone Park, which is just north of the smaller Grand Teton NP – Mistake! Drive a little further south, get the boots ready and hike to the Amphitheater Lake to get a close look on the highest peak of the Park, or hike into the narrow Death Canyon!

Of course, the town of Jackson shouldn´t be neglected either. The local outfitter Stio has the best souvenirs, or, if required, equipment for the adventurous. The Snake River Brewery, which is named after the beautiful river that flows through the National Park provides you with different kinds of locally brewed beer and burgers. And if you want to get into Line Dancing, join a free lesson at Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.

Although it is really disturbing to see people walking around town openly carrying a gun, this is the place to get a true “Wild West” experience. And if you´re still wondering who voted for America´s next president, you´ll find out here.

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